Day 11: Peach Springs to Ash Fork

I left really early again, not because of the heat this time, but because the later I left, the more powerful a headwind I’d have for the first half of the day. So I rolled out around 3:40 AM.

It was pretty warm when I started, but the temperature dropped to the low 60s as the elevation climbed. It was a refreshing change from the heat of the Mojave Desert.

I was hoping to spy a scorpion or tarantula in the dark, so I had a headlamp strapped awkwardly between my helmet and my hat brim, ready in case I saw something just off the road. I saw lots of bouncy little rodents (kangaroo rats?), but no scorpions, no tarantulas.

Then, just as the eastern horizon started to lighten, I rolled past something on the shoulder. I almost ran right over it, and only managed to swerve away at the last moment.

My first thought was, “WOW, that is a very symmetrical gray poop!”

A second later, I realized it was a rattlesnake!

I immediately parked my bike, turned on my headlamp, and cautiously approached. As I got closer, I could see his dark tongue tasting the air. I kept a safe distance and circled him to get the best angle. He looked so small and soft. The urge to pick him up was strong. But, of course, I am not crazy! I loved him.

I guessed it was another Western diamondback, despite the greenish coloration, because I thought we were probably outside the Mojave Rattlesnake range, but the reliable responders on reddit unanimously agreed it was a Mojave rattlesnake.

https://www.reddit.com/r/whatsthissnake/s/BkaRtJq9im

Less than two hours later, I came across a small gopher snake with a SERIOUS attitude. After taking his picture, I gently herded him off the road.

I rolled through Seligman in time for “second breakfast,” a cherished touring tradition I got to indulge for the first time on this trip. If you ever find yourself at Westside Lilo’s Cafe, order “Those potatoes.” You won’t regret it.

Now I’m in Ash Fork, too early to check into my motel, so I’m sitting in the truck stop writing this and watching the storm clouds gather for the predicted afternoon thundershowers.

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